My Monferrato

Monferrato comprises roughly the provinces of Alessandria and Asti – its borders are not clearly defined. It is here that the most important centres for Italian wine are to be found. The area also has a strong literary tradition being the birthplace of Umberto Eco (Alessandria ) and the 18th century poet and dramatist Vittorio Alfieri ( Asti ). The region is cut in two by the river Tanaro.

The northern part, Basso Monferrato lies between the Tanaro and the River Po and is an area of rolling hills, and the southern part, Alto Monferrato rises into the mountains of the Appenines and meets the hills of Liguria. The Piemontese Alps with the beautiful Val d’Aosta and the Gran Paradiso National Park are close at hand to the north, and many famous French Italian and Swiss resorts are within easy reach. The charm of the region is carried by its gently rolling hills, tiny hilltop villages and broad fertile landscape of vineyards and orchards. A network of mostly small roads connects these old villages and towns with each other. Traffic congestion is unknown in this part of the world .

The climate is Mediterranean and mild – the Italian Riviera is only 30 miles away. The winters are short and night temperatures in January and February only occasionally fall below zero. Spring and summer are long and warm. The summers are hot and dry, although the hilltops are ventilated by a pleasant breeze.

The local people are very friendly, warm and helpful and welcome tourists. The social dislocation caused by emigration to the cities has not been a problem here as it has in other regions of Italy and the crime rate is correspondingly well below the national average. The history of Monferrato is closely linked with France and you will find many similarities in architecture, language and culture.

The Wines

Vines

Piemonte is world famous for wine production and Monferrato is the home to some of the best known, and indeed best Italian wines. All are readily available in Monferrato, in ‘enoteca’ close to the house.

Practically all of Piedmont’s classified wines derive from native vines. Besides the noble Nebbiolo - source of Barolo, Barbaresco and Gattinara, which are all DOCG - Barbera ranks as the most popular vine for reds and Dolcetto is admired for its soft, full-flavoured wines. Freisa, Grignolino, Brachetto and a host of other varieties round out the honour roll of reds.

Still, among DOC wines at least, whites are equally prominent. First comes Moscato d’Asti, the base of Asti Spumante. With an output surpassing 50 million litres annually, it ranks second in volume to Chianti among Italy’s classified wines. An established star among dry whites is Gavi from the native cortese grape.

Though it ranks only seventh among the regions in total production, in every other way Piemonte is a giant of wine. It has the most DOC-DOCG zones, 38 (taking in 43 distinct types of wine) and the most vineyards dedicated to classified production. For craftmanship, respect for tradition and devotion to native vines in their historical habitat, the Piemontese have no rivals in Italy.

The focal point of premium production is the town of Alba on the Tanaro River. In the nearby hills, Barolo (king of wines and wine of kings) is produced at the rate of about 6 million bottles a year and Barbaresco, which many experts rate as its equal, reaches half that. Both come from Nebbiolo, which gives them the powerful structure that makes them capable of improving for many years. Fine vintages include 1990, ‘89, ‘88, ‘86, and.’85

The traditional Barolo and Barbaresco were at one time admired almost as ‘cult’ wines, though often criticised as too elaborate for modern palates. But the combination of a series of fine vintages and newly studied techniques among winemakers, many of them young, seems to be changing the old-fashioned image. Barolo and Barbaresco have retained their ample dimensions while becoming better balanced and more approachable than before. The area is renowned for its smooth, supple Dolcetto under several appellations, and for first-rate Nebbiolo and white Arneis.

But the most surprising progress in both the Alba and Asti areas has been made with the ubiquitous Barbera, which after years of being considered ‘common’ has rapidly become chic. Certain aged Barberas from choice plots around Asti and Alba have emerged to stand comparison with fine Nebbiolo reds. Piemontese drink more red wine than white, and about half of the red is Barbera, which can also be attractive in youthfully fruity and bubbly versions.

Monferrato ranks highly as Italy’s leading producer of sparkling wines. Foremost among them is Asti Spumante, the world’s most popular sweet sparkling wine. The market for this fragrant white is actually larger abroad than in Italy. In fact, worldwide demand is so great that a shortage of moscato di Canelli grapes has developed. Among still whites, Gavi has emerged as one of Italy’s most coveted, with a crisp, lively style. Admirers consider it one of the best with seafood. Arneis continues to gain ground and the light, zesty Favorita is also beginning to emerge.

Although Piemontese growers were among the first to experiment with such outside varieties as Cabernet and the Pinots early in the 19th century, these vines largely faded from favour. Recently, though, Cabernet Sauvignon, the Pinots and especially Chardonnay have shown unusual promise as table wines. But admirers have noted that, despite their vines’ universal status, the wines bear a stamp that is unmistakably Piemontese.

The wine route on which Villa Gotta stands runs the length of Monferrato and here many local producers will welcome you calling in for wine tasting at any time and to purchase a few bottles.

Local ‘enoteca’, the best of which is at Vignale Monferrato, will have the best of the above wines available and will advise you on the best vintages.

‘La Cucina’

Piemontese cooking is regarded as the best of the Italian regions. Great wines come from here and it’s not a coincidence that the land that produces a great wine also produces a great cuisine.

Autumn has always been the richest season for Monferrato, land of barolo wine and of truffles, and of well-cultivated vineyards. After the grapes have been harvested the farmers go hunting for truffles. The Barolo wine does not betray, and goes perfectly with specialities such as “taiarin,” narrow tagliatelle enriched with aromatic truffles.

One of the local specialities is “agnolotti,” pasta made with eggs stuffed with beef, pork, or rabbit, flavoured with sausage, parmesan cheese, eggs and herbs. “Risotti” or rice dishes are another speciality, often covered with truffles. In past times a “risotto” might compose the entire meal, enriched with “funghi porcini” (mushrooms), fondue, eels and frogs from the Po River, little birds on a spit, and other delicacies.

The second courses served in the area might reflect the French influence, for example “brasato al barolo” (braised beef with Barolo). The assortment of meats is rich and includes pieces of pork, veal, turkey, beef and vegetables accompanied by pickled sauces and “salsa verde”, a spicy green sauce made from parsley, garlic, breadcrumbs drenched in vinegar, hard-boiled eggs, olive oil and pepper.

Monferrato is perhaps most famous for its tartuffi bianchi – white truffles. White truffles are much rarer and more expensive than black truffles and are considered tastier by connoisseurs. They sell for at least £500, ($1,000) a pound wholesale. White truffles are used in many Piemontese dishes, including the fonduta, a variation of the Swiss fondue. And since Piedmont produces much of the country’s rice, you will find plenty of risotti.

Tagliatelle cooked in chicken broth and served with chicken livers comes a close second to agnolotti. Much polenta is eaten, as well as semolina gnocchi, which is said to have originated here. Also, bollito misto, ( boiled beef, chicken, veal and ham) served with cabbage or onions with a green sauce and a dab of jelly - is a popular dish. Others are brasato al barolo and tripe served in wine. Clever things are done with vegetables. Panizza (a specialty of Vercelli) is a mixture of white beans, tomatoes, onions, bacon and rice. Peppers are stuffed with tomatoes, anchovies, garlic, butter and then baked; mushroom heads, stuffed with parsley, onions, anchovies, egg and bread crumbs, are simmered in olive oil. Truffles are stewed in Asti Spumante, or cooked with Fontina cheese. Onions are made into a sweet by stuffing them with bread soaked in milk, macaroons, scrambled egg and raisins.

Monferrato also produces some luxurious cheeses. Many varieties are produced locally and in such small quantities that commercialisation is impossible.

Best cheeses to look out for include:

Gorgonzola - soft fatty with classic blue/green streaks

Grana Padano, - a strong hard cheese

Castlemango - a mix between gorgonzola and grana padano, Murazzano - soft and white , eaten fresh or seasoned

Seirass- sheep’s milk ricotta with added salt and hot peppers